Sumacs are stately specimens. There are a few to choose from, though the staghorn sumac tree rises to the top of the list. It’s a native species of North America, and it thrives in home gardens—a little too well!

You may have heard that sumacs are high-maintenance and difficult to care for. The truth is, they’re aggressive growers, but you can easily maintain them with some care-free pruning. Choosing a good spot will also help them thrive with little maintenance. 

Whether you’re planting one in an untended spot of the yard or you’re using it as a focal point, the staghorn sumac tree impresses onlookers with its colorful leaves, blooms, and fuzzy stems. Learn how to plant, grow, and care for it in this all-inclusive guide. 

What Is It?

The staghorn sumac is a deciduous tree or shrub in the landscape. It tends to grow suckers over time that form extensive colonies. Identify it properly by using its scientific name, Rhus typhina. 

Native Area

These trees are native to North America.

Staghorn sumac trees are native to eastern North America, where they grow at forest edges, swampy sites, and disturbed lands. They grow from northern Canada south through Alabama and Georgia. Nowadays, they’ve spread westward to Colorado and Utah. 

Staghorn sumacs also naturalize well in parts of Europe and Asia. They grow well outside of their native range in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 9. I have two growing in my zone 8 garden in Oregon, where they behave well as single-stem trees.

Characteristics

The furry stems resemble deer antlers.

Staghorn sumac trees receive their name because of the way the furry young stems resemble deer antlers. They are quite twiggy and fleshy when young, and they harden and thicken as they mature. Green leaves grow in spring from the twiggy branches.

The green leaves sprout alternately on the stems, and they’re pinnately compound. They turn from green to red when chilly weather returns in the fall. When they fall off, they reveal clusters of furry seed heads that are incredibly ornamental. 

The roots are suckering. They’ll send up new shoots during the growing season, and the new stems will mature into thick trunks over future seasons. In this way, a single plant can form a vast colony. Simply snip the stems when they’re young if you don’t want them to grow. 

A superb tree, this sumac benefits wildlife and pollinators. It hosts native butterfly larvae, it feeds birds with its seeds, and its flowers feed native bees with nectar and pollen. If you’d like to help local wildlife in the eastern U.S., plant a staghorn sumac tree. 

Planting

Find sumac suckers to propagate from a friend, or look for potted plants at a local nursery. You may also grow the tree from seeds, though it’ll take many more years to cultivate a mature specimen. It’s a rewarding process, yet it’s quicker to transplant potted sumacs. 

Growing from Seed

Soak the seeds before planting to encourage germination.

This sumac is dioecious, meaning separate plants have either male or female flowers. Female trees grow seeds, and male trees produce pollen from their flowers. You’ll need to find a female tree to locate seeds, or purchase them from a reputable seed seller. 

The seeds need some special treatment before they’re ready to germinate. Soak them in hot water for 24 hours, then sow them outdoors in pots at the end of the growing season. Let the seeds overwinter outside, and keep them moist but not soggy. 

Sprouts should appear in spring after the cold weather dissipates. Let them grow, then transplant the seedlings to larger pots or into your garden beds. 

Transplanting

Stake early if the trunk needs support.

Once you have mature seedlings or potted trees from a nursery, you’re ready for transplanting. Start by preparing the site. Dig a hole as deep and twice as wide as the plant’s rootball. Set the tree inside, and backfill the hole with the dug-out soil.

Add stakes during the transplanting process if the trunk needs support. Young saplings have weak trunks that may snap under pressure. New sprouts will grow, but you’ll lose the main stem. Avoid this with proper staking at planting. 

Water the site well, then let the dirt settle. Add more soil on top if the surface sinks too low. After planting, add a layer of compost two to three inches thick. This will help the tree with nutrients, protection, and insulation. 

How to Grow

Staghorn sumac trees grow well with little maintenance, especially within their native range. Give them extra care their first year after planting. After the first year, they’ll thrive for future seasons with minimal irrigation and care. 

Light

Staghorn sumac trees prefer partial shade or full sun.

These sumac trees need full sun or partial shade to thrive. Give them between three and eight hours of daily direct sunlight. They’ll tolerate shade, though they grow their best with direct sunlight. 

The more shade a tree receives, the more airy and leggy it will grow. Trees under full sun will have dense foliage throughout their canopies. 

Water

Once established, you won’t need to worry about watering.

Sumac roots are drought-tolerant after they establish themselves. They need regular irrigation the first year after planting. Then, they’ll need little to no extra irrigation. 

Avoid watering sumacs too much, as they vehemently dislike soggy conditions. They’ll suffer from root rot in overwatered soils. 

The trees may dislike the regular irrigation that garden beds and borders receive. It’s best to let them ramble and roam as they please in untended areas of the landscape. 

Soil

Plant in soil that drains quickly.

Well-drained soil is a must-have for staghorn trees. They won’t fare well in dense, wet clay. Let them flourish in a free-draining spot of the yard. 

If the soil is dense or doesn’t drain, consider amending it with compost. Add a layer two to three inches thick, and water it well. The compost will introduce beneficial nutrients and organisms that’ll improve the soil’s quality. 

Fertilizing

Potted plants may need an extra nutrient boost.

You shouldn’t need to fertilize these trees. They fare well in poor soils where other plants struggle. The exception is for potted plants, as they may need additional nutrients. 

Fertilize potted sumacs once or twice during the growing season. Use an organic, well-balanced fertilizer, and water it well to help it leach into the ground. 

Maintenance

Remove suckers as they appear.

The main maintenance you’ll have to do is sucker removal. Snap the young sprouts from the soil with your hands. Use pruners when they’re older, and snip them off low to the ground. 

You may rejuvenate older specimens by cutting them to the ground. Perhaps you want a multi-stem specimen, or you’d like a shorter tree. Simply chop the trunk, and let a new sprout take its place. Do this every few years, as they need some seasons to recover. 

Propagation

Propagate staghorn sumac trees with cuttings, suckers, or seeds. Cuttings and suckers are the best two propagation methods, as they’re quick to root. Seed starting takes many seasons to grow a mature specimen. It’s a process for a patient gardener!

Cuttings

Propagate new trees from healthy cuttings.

Take cuttings early in the growing season after the leaves sprout. Cut four to six-inch stem portions, and stick their lower ends into pots with potting soil.

Water the pots, then cover the tops with a humidity dome. Use a clear plastic dome or a clear bag that you can tie over the top. 

Keep the cuttings in partial shade while they root, and monitor them to ensure they stay moist. You’ll know they have roots when they resist pulling. Pot up the rooted cuttings into larger containers, or move them into the yard. 

Suckers

Dig up suckers without damaging the existing roots.

Suckers are the easiest to propagate. Many already have sufficient root systems. All you have to do is dig them up and transplant them. Use a shovel or hand trowel, and dig them up in fall or spring when the weather is cool and mild. 

Start by digging a few inches outside of the sucker. Ensure you get some roots, and lift it from the ground. Place the sucker in a pot with fresh potting soil, or transplant it to another area of the garden. 

Suckers will form new trees if they’re left to grow. If they grow in a good spot, simply leave them be! They’ll flourish over time. 

Seed Saving

Let the seeds dry before storing them.

Save seeds at the end of the growing season when the fuzzy seeds are ripe and bright red. Snip them off to collect them, or use your hands to pull some off.

Let the seeds dry fully before storing them. Set them on a tray, and rotate them every few days to prevent mold from forming. 

After the seeds dry fully, store them in containers. Keep them in paper packets, glass jars, or plastic containers. Store the containers in a cool, dark place like the pantry or your refrigerator. 

Harvesting and Storage

Berries can be used as a spice.

These sumac berries are edible! Many cultures use them as a spice. They add a tangy flavor that works well as a substitute for citrus. Harvest them when they’re red, bright, and ripe. 

Dry the berries first, then grind them up into a spice powder. Keep the spice in a container, and sprinkle it onto cooked or fresh dishes for a lemony tang. 

Popular Varieties

A few cultivars offer unique characteristics that differ from those of the species. Try a funky variety if you want a special specimen that stands out from the rest of the garden. 

Tiger Eyes

Appreciated for its bright color.

‘Tiger Eyes’ sumac is the favorite cultivar of many gardeners. It features dissected yellow leaves, and it tends to stay under six feet tall. It’ll form vast stands of low-growing stems after many seasons. 

Though ‘Tiger Eyes’ tends to sucker less than other varieties, it’ll still do so occasionally throughout the year. Remove the suckers to prevent them from spreading. 

Laciniata

This larger variety can reach up to 20 feet tall.

‘Laciniata’ is the parent plant of ‘Tiger Eyes’. It grows much larger, and it can reach between 10 and 20 feet tall. Like ‘Tiger Eyes,’ it features divided leaves that are stunning when they sprout en masse in spring. 

‘Laciniata’ sumac trees grow green leaves, and they tend to form suckers. For these reasons, many growers prefer growing ‘Tiger Eyes’ sumac trees instead. 

Dissecta

Leaves change color in fall before dropping.

‘Dissecta’ is similar to ‘Laciniata.’ It grows to between 10 and 25 feet tall, and it features deeply dissected green leaves. The foliage turns rich shades of orange, yellow, and red in autumn before it falls off. 

‘Dissecta’ spreads more aggressively than the previous two varieties. It’ll form dense thickets without pruning, and it requires annual upkeep to limit the unruly spread. 

Common Problems

These sumac specimens are susceptible to leaf spots, powdery mildew, and rusts. They may form blisters or cankers. Some pests target them, like mites, aphids, and scale insects. Prevent pests and diseases by keeping your sumac plants happy and healthy while they grow in the garden.

Pests

Mites are a common problem for staghorn sumac trees.

Mites are the main concerning pests, as they can cause damage during the warm seasons. They love dry leaves, and they’ll form vast webs along them. Infestations harm the trees and cause them to suffer while they should be thriving.

Treat mites by washing them off the leaves with a strong stream of water. Or, use a pump sprayer. Spray them off, and do so daily until they disappear completely. 

Aphids and scale may occur, though they tend to go away over the winter. Monitor populations to ensure they don’t return the following year. If you see caterpillars, leave them be! They’re likely caterpillars of native butterflies, and they’re hungry for a few leaves. Let them eat to help them survive. 

Diseases

Look for signs of disease in the foliage.

Leaf spots, powdery mildew, and rusts tend to go away over the winter. Keep a tidy garden, and clean any fallen leaves that show signs of disease. Prune off any diseased stems in the fall to prevent pathogens from overwintering. 

Watch for signs of bacterial canker on trees outside the native range. Canker will show up as yellow-brown stems with black interiors. Remove the affected portions with pruning. 

Frequently Asked Questions